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HIBMRY OF CONGRESS. I 

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! UNITED STATES OP AMERICA, f 



TERRIER DOGS: 



SHOWING THE BEST METHODS OP 



BREEDING, REABItJG, FEEDING, CROPPING, PHYSICING, 

CURE OF DISEASES, ETC., 



WITH A DESCEIPTION OF THE 

I>OINTS AND PBOPEKTIES OF THE BULL DOG, BULL TER- 

EIEE, BLACK AND TAN, SCOTCH, SKYE AND TOY 

TERBIEES, ITALIAN GREYHOUND, PUG DOG 

AND KING CHARLES SPANIEL ; 

ALSO, 

RATS AND RAT KILLING, 

• WITH 



CANINE, RATTING AND BADGER BAITING RULES, 
AND TRAINING DOGS FOR THE PIT; 



TOGETHER WITH THE 

ART OF LEARNING DOGS TRICKS. 



BY 

ED. J.AMES, 



AUTHOR OF "THE GAME COCK," "MANUAL OF SPOKTINa EULES,** 'ETC?' 



PUBLISHED BY /^ ^f f ^i^^ ^ 

ED. JAMES, 88 AND 90 CENTRE STREET, NEW YORI&^ 

NEW yOKK CLIPPER BUILDING. 



1873. Price, $1* 



Second Edition. 't3 '2- . 



Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1?73, 
BY ED. JAMES, ^ ^ 

Zn the oflSce of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



Copyrighted at Stationers' Hall, London, England. 



M. T. TYLER, Printer, 

and 90 Centre street. New York. 



PREFACE. 



There are few households indeed where we do not 
find a dog of some kind. Some are kept for use, others 
for amusement. While almost everyone has a general 
knowledge of what dogs should be, few understand the 
points which render them valuable. To those who 
own dogs or intend to purchase, it would be well to 
carefully peruse this little volume, which combines 
conciseness with practicability and useful information. 
Dog like other flesh is liable to ills of various kinds, 
and they need looking after from birth till death. 
How to do this properly, with remedies for their vari- 
ous diseases, is herein given. Canine contests may 
not suit the majority, but "everybody to his fancy."- 
No one, however, can consistently find fault with en- 
couraging the destruction of that detestable and de- 
structive animal known as the rat. For this reason the 
Canine and Ratting Rules are introduced, as also the 
mode of Training dogs for these purposes. Those 
having pet dogs will find an interesting chapter upon 
the method of learning them various Tricks, and it is 
hoped and believed that this volume will find its way 
wherever it will be of use, 



CONTENTS. 



Terrier Dogs, etc. 

How to Breed Dogs 7 

Removing Dewclaws 8 

Cropping Terriers 8 

A Little of All Sorts 9 

The Bull Dog. 

His Appearance and Courage lo 

Points and Properties ii 

Principal Breeders 13 

The Bull Terrier — Points and Properties 15 

The Black and Tan — Points and Properties 16 

The Rough Terrier — Points and Properties i3 

The Skye Terrier — Points and Properties iS 

The Italian Greyhound — Points and Properties 20 

The Pug Dog — Points and Properties 21 

King Charles Spaniel 22 

Toy Terriers 23 

Jacko, the Wonder 24 

Dog Shows 25 

Training for the Pit 26 

Dog Fighting Rules 27 

English Dog Fighting Rules 28 

Rat Killing Rules 29 

Badger Baiting Rules 30 

The Rat — Nature and Fecundity 31 

How much Rats Consume 32 

About Ferrets 33 

What Cats and Traps will Do 33 

The Rat's Greatest Enemy 34 

Learning Dogs to Kill Rats 34 

Art of Learning Dogs Tricks— To Leap ; To Walk Erect 36 

To Dance ; To Sit and Lie Down ; To Beg 37 

To Speak For It ; To Fetch and Carry ■. 38 

To Bring his Tail in his Mouth 39 

To Stand on his Head and Walk on his Hind Legs 40 

To Sing 40 

To Feign Death ; The Lump of Sugar Trick 41 

Diseases and their Cure — Hydrophobia 42 

Inflammation of the Eye 42 

Cataract or Scum 42 

Inflammation of the Bowels 42 

Dumb Madness 42 

Canker in the Ear 43 

Jaundice 43 

Worms 43 

Mange 44 

Distemper 45 

Diarrhoea 45 

Costiveness 45 

Encysted Tumors ; Parturition 46 



TEKRIER DOGS, 

ETC. 

HOW TO BKEED DOGS. 

Do not be satisfied with the appearance of the Dog or 
Bitch which you intend to breed from. Ascertain their 
pedigree as far back as possible, say at least four genera- 
tions. The male should be not under two years old and 
the female at least fifteen months. The male, if in health 
and well used is not unfit to breed with, till his eighth 
year, the female under like circumstances until her sixth 
year. They should both be in perfect health. The fe- 
male goes with young two months and three days, and 
has from four to a dozen young at a birth. The pups are 
born blind, and their eyes open about the tenth day. The 
female should not be permitted to breed oftener than three 
times in two years, nor to rear more than five pujDpies. 
The pups should not be suckled longer than six weeks. 
After weaning the pups will feed voraciously, but should 
not be given as much as they .will eat or they will surfeit 
themselves. ^ Their diet may consist of well boiled oatmeal 
porridge, mashed potatoes, with skim milk, or new milk, to 
dilute the mess; give it cool, and do not add the milk until 
the mess be cool. 'Feed three times a day. Give the food 
fresh and keep the vessels clean. Let the pups have a bed 
of clean straw over pine shavings or pine sawdust, the tur- 
pentine contained in the wood banishes fleas. 

Examine the puppies occasionally to see whether they 
are lousy; a decoction of tobacco destroys the vermin. 

Xiet there be a supply of fresh water always within their 
reach, and let them have an open yard in which they may 
disport themselves. If you hav'nt a grass plot, get some 
nice fresh p;rass cut twice or three times a week, accessible 
to them. The dog is the best physician in his own sick- 
ness, and will resort to the grass with much satisfaction 
if his stomach be out of order. At about four months 



8 - CROPPING TERRIERS. 

old, the first set of teeth, or milk teeth, begin to drop out, 
and are replaced by the permanent set, which change ia 
complete between the sixth and seventh month. The tuskrj 
have acquired their length about the twelfth or thii'teenth 
month. At about two years old, a yellow circle makes 
its appearance around the base of the tusks, which grad- 
ually develops itself, with more and more intensity, until 
the third year. About this time, the edges of the front or 
cutting teeth, begin to be worn down, and the httle nick 
on the crown of the lateral incisors disappear. As the 
fourth year approaches, the tusks lose their points, and 
the teeth present a gradual progress of decay, until the 
fifth or sixth year, when the incisors begin to fall and the 
tusks become discolored over their entire surface, . At his 
eighth year a few gray hairs will show themselves around 
his eyes and the comers of his mouth. These appearances 
increase in intensity to the eleventh or twelfth year. 

BEMOVING DEWCLAWS. 

It frequently happens that puppies are born with a fifth 
toe upon the hind foot; this is called a dewclaw. This 
should be taken off between the third or fourth week. The 
modus operandi is as follows: Let the pup be firmly held 
by one person and the second person taking a pair of large, 
sharp scissors, after having felt for the proper place to cut, 
proceed to cut off the extraneous member — do this unhes- 
itatingly and with firmness. Some think this inhuman, 
but the pain is momentary and the tongue of the dam 
will soon heal it. 

CKOPPING TERRIERS. 

In cropping a Black and Tan, or any other terrier, the 
following directions should be observed: Draw the ears 
over the head until the points meet; with a very sharp 
pair of scissors, cut both points off to the length you de- 
sire; then with a single cut to each, from below upwards, 
cut away the hinder portion of the flaps of the ears up to 
the point. In a week they will be aU healed up. The tail 
of a well bred pup should never be meddled with; and if 
the dog. be badly bred, and his tail, consequently, coarse, 
he is not worth keeping. 



A LITTLE OF ALL SORTS. 9 

A LITTLE OF ALL SOKTS. 

Useful Information for O'^^nees of Dogs. 

Staggers and Fits generally happen in warm weather. 
Throw water on them, if convenient. If not, bleed in 
neck if you have lancets. If not, with your knife slit the 
ears, which you can cause to adhere together again; or run 
your knife across two or three bars next the teeth. Bitches 
coming off heat are more subject to this than dogs in good 
health. 

To make a bitch inclined to copulate give seven drops 
tincture of cantharides twice a day till effect is produced, 
which generally takes about six days. 

To make a dog fine his coat give a tablespoonful of tar 
in oatmeal. Make bolus. 

For wounds apply a poultice for a day or two then ap- 
ply Frier's Balsam covering up the place. 

To make a Seton^ take a dozen or two strands of a horse's 
tail, plait them, rub blistering ointment on them. Pass it 
through two or three inches of the skin with a curved sur- 
gical needle. Tie the ends together. Move daily. 

If a dog is poisoned, give teacupful of castor oil. After 
he has vomited well continue to pour ohve oil down his 
throat, and rub his belly. 

To reduce the time a bitch is in heat, give her a little 
nitre in water, and a dose of calomel, four grains or there- 
abouts, followed by salts or aloes. 

Bilious Fever, is caused by want of exercise and too 
high feeding. Calomel, six or eight grains; or- in an ob- 
stinate case, turpeth mineral or yellow-mercury, six to 
twelve grains, in a bolus. 

To REMOVE Fleas. — Scotch snuff steeped in gin is infalli- 
ble, but must be used with great care, and not above a 
teaspoonful of snuff to a pint of gin, as the cure, if over- 
done is a deadly poison. 

For Lice use a small quantity of mercurial ointment, 
reduced by adding hog*s lard to it, say an equal quantity, 
rubbed along the top of the dog's back never fails. The 
greatest care must be taken to keep the animal warm. 

Bones given to dogs habitually not only clean the teeth, 
but aid in their formation, and also increase the general 
health of the whole system. 




THE BULL D0&. 



HIS APPEAEANCE AND COUKAGE. 

The Bull Dog tates his name from haying in oldei^ 
times been employed in fighting the bull. He is low in stat- 
ure, deep chested and strongly made about the shoulders 
and thighs, the muscles of both, of which are extremely 
developed. His head is broad, his nose short and under 
jaw projects beyond the upper which gives him a fierce 
and disagreeable aspect. His eyes are distant and promi- 
nent and have a peculiar suspicious-like leer which with 
the distension of his nostrils gives him a contemptuous 
look, and, from his teeth being always seen, he has the con- 
stant appearance of grinning when he is perfectly placid. 
He is the most ferocious and unrelenting of the canine 
tribe, and may be considered courageous beyond every 
other creature in the world, for he will attack any animal, 
whatever his magnitude may be. The brain of the bull 
dog is sensibly smaller than that of any other animal, and 
it is owing to this that he is inferior to all other species in 
everything relating to intelligence. He is scarcely capable 



THE BULL DOG. 11 

of any education, and is fitted for nothing but combat and 
ferocity. Nothing can exceed the fury with which the bull 
dog falls upon all other animals, and the invincible obsti- 
nacy with which he maintains his hold. Whenever a 
bull dog attacks any of the extremities of the body it is 
universally considered a mark of his degeneracy from the 
original purity of the blood. The ligaments of the bull 
dog, are not considered at their full strength until he is at 
bast two years old, and some say they are not "in their 
prime untU they have attained four or five years. 

POINTS AND PROPERTIES OF A PERFECT 

BULL dog: 

The ears should be very small and should be placed on 
the top of the head. They should be either "rose," 
"button" or "tulip" ears. The "rose ear" folds at the 
back and the tip laps over outwards, exposing part of the 
inside. The "button ear" only differs from the "rose" in 
the falling of the tip, which laps over in front hiding the 
interior completely. The "tulip ear" is nearly erect, and 
is the least desirable form. 

The skull should be very large, and the cheeks should 
extend well beyond the eyes. Breadth of the skull should 
be in comparison to length. The forehead should be well 
wrinkled, and not prominent as in the "King Charles" 
Spaniel. 

The eyes should be as nearly black as possible. The 
shape of the opening of the Hds should be quite round. 
The eyes should be moderately large, and should be quite 
in front of the head, as far from the ear and as near to 
the nose as possible; very far apart, but not so far as to 
interfere with the prominence of the cheeks, and neither 
prominent, nor deeply set in the head. The corners of 
the eyes should be at right angles to a line drawn down 
the centre of the face. 

The "stop" is an indentation between the eyes. It 
should extend some considerable distance up the head. 

The face, measured from the front of the cheek bone to 
the end of the nose, should be very short, and this point 
cannot be carried to too great an excess. The wrinkles 
should be deep and close together. The muzzle should 
turn upwards. 

The covering of the teeth, which should not be seen 



12 THE BULL DOG. 

■when the mouth is shut. The nose should be large and 
black. 

The breadth at the termination of the jaws should be as 
great as possible, and the lower jaw should project consid- 
erably in advance of the upper one, so that the nose is very- 
much set back. The lower jaw should turn upwards. 

The neck should be moderate in length, of considerable 
thickness and should be well arched at the back. 

The chest should be very great in width and should be 
deep and round. 

The body should be very broad at the shoulders and 
comparatively small at the loins. There should be a faU 
in the back behind the# shoulder grand the spine should rise 
at the loins, falling again very much towards the stern, and 
forming an elegant arch. The ribs should be well rounded. 

The stern should be moderate in length. A slight crook 
is no objection, but a screwed or notted stern is not to be 
desired. A greater length may be allowed, provided the 
tail curl at the end, and form what is called a '^ing tail." 
A little thickness at the root is an advantage. The carriage 
of the stern should be downwards, and the dog should not 
be able to raise his stern above the level of his back. The 
situation should be low down at the insertion. 

The fore legs should be very thick in the calves, rather 
bowed in shape, (more so than the hind legs) but not so 
as to make the back appear long. 

The hind legs should be moderate in length, but greater 
than that of the fore legs, so as to elevate the loins. The 
hocks should approach each other, which involves the 
turning out of the stifles. 

The fore feet should be moderately round and well split 
up between the toes, they should be straight, that is, neither 
turned outwards nor inwards, and should be rather small 
in size. 

The hind feet are not expected to be so round as the fore- 
feet, but they should not be long like a terrier's, and they 
should be split up between the toes. They should be turned 
outwards and rather small in size 

The color should be *'whole,'* that is, unmixed with white; 
unless the dog be all white, which is, in 'that case, consider- 
ed a "whole" color. 

The tint should be either red, red-smut (that is red with 
black muzzle), fawn, fawn-smut, fallow, fallow-smut, brin- 
dled, white^ or blue fawn Cthat is fawn with bl^ie muzzle). 



BREEDERS OF BULL DOGS. 13 

A dog may be pied witli any of the above colors, but a 
"whole" color is to be preferred. 

Proportion — No property should be so much in excess 
as to destroy the general symmetry of the dog. 

Carriage — The dog should roll in his gait. He generally 
runs rather sideways. His hind legs should not be lifted 
high as he runs, so that his hind feet seem to skim the 
ground. 

Weight — This may be from about fifteen to sixty pounds. 

PEINCIPAL BEEEDERS OF BULL DOGS. 

The English Bull Dog iff gradually disappearing from the 
animal kingdom. Jemmy Shaw the famous dog fancier 
and ex-pugilist of London, Eng., about thirty years ago 
had a white dog called "Tumbler" who was a descendant 
of the breed of dogs, known as the Tumbler breed, or 
Screw-tail dog, he was acknowledged by the fancy to be 
a first class high bred dog. Jim Burns, a well known Eng- 
lish pugilist, had a brace of bulls named Crib and Bosa 
"which were also celebrated for their high breed. The 
Clerkenwell Green dog, all white and not very large, was 
in great demand a few years later for stock purposes, but 
according to Harry Jennings* opinion, the handsomest 
bull dog in or near London was that owned by Jack Gill, 
of Deptford, this dog was a brindle and white and was a 
Tumbler breed, weighing about twenty-one pounds. The 
late George Moore formerly of Liverpool, but for a long 
time a resident of New York, owned one of the highest and 
best bred bull dogs of his time. There may be a few of 
the old stock left, but they are "few and far between." 




THE BULL TERRIER. 

The Bull Terrier is bred from tlie Bull Dog and Englisli 
Terrier Hound, the last named being used for bringing 
out the fox when he is secreted in his hole and the Fox 
Hounds cannot get at him, and is noted for extraordinary- 
speed, scent, and gameness, in short, he will face anything. 

The first cross of Bull Terrier is generally too much 
like the Bull Dog, but the second shows in perfection all 
the attributes required for the purpose the Bull Terrier is 
used. 

The best breed of Bull Terriers are those that come from 
the North of England, Yorkshire and Staffordshire. They 
are used for fighting, rat killing, coon, badger, and bear 
baiting, and make perhaps the best watch dogs. The 
Bull Terrier is becoming a more domestic and tracta- 
ble successor to the Bull Dog uniting, as he does, the most 
desirable quahties and presenting a far more inviting ap- 
pearance. 

Whatever objections may be raised to some of the uses 



THE BULL TERRIER. 15 

terriers are employed in, dogs "wlII be dogs and "delight to 
bark and bite/' as Watts the psalmist has to truthfully 
sung. 

No one however has such a passionate love for that de- 
testable "varmint" the rat, as to object to the destruction 
of the same. It is as natural for a good dog to kill rats 
as for a cat to kill mice. 

POINTS AND PEOPEETIES OF A PEKFECT 
BULL TEERIEE. 

His head should be long, the muzzle sharp, the jaw 
level — not underhung, which is a disfigurement and also 
prevents a dog punishing his adversary. The under jaw 
should display great power, and the neck should be long. 

The chest is wide, the shoulders sloping and powerful, 
the loins and back strong, the hind quarters and thighs 
muscular. The tail should be fine and sting-like but not 
bare, carried gaily but not "hooped." 

The fore legs should be straight with a slight angle at 
the pastern. The bone of the leg must be as large as 
possible and the muscle of the fore arm as well as the ten- 
dons of the pasterns and toes, proportionably strong. If 
the foot is not perfectly straight, it must turn in, not out. 
In shape it should be round and cat-like, but very highly 
arched toes are apt to give way. Sole hard and thick. 
The hind quarters must be as strong as possible, wide as 
well as deep. Bone of pastern strong and large; hockn 
strong and straight. 

The coat throughout is fine and short, and it should lie 
smoothly as in a weU dressed racehorse. Pure white, 
with a black eye and nose, is the most approved color, but 
white with colored ears or a patch on the eyes is highly 
appreciated. As in the Bull Dog the color should be 
"whole" and, when spotted, correspond with the colors oi 
the Bull Dog. 

His weight varies from twelve up to thirty-five pounds 02 
more. 

His appearance resembles that of the terrier, except 
that he is wider across the skull and possesses more strength 
and stamiaa. 




THE 

BLACK MD TAI TERRIER. 

POINTS AND PROPEETIES. 

The Black and Tan English Terrier should have a long 
fine muzzle, not underhung, but, if anything, the upper 
jaw projecting over the lower. The skull shoTild be flat 
and narrow between the ears; the eye must be small and 
black; the nose black; the ears, if not left on, must be well 
cropped, erect, and long; if entire, they should be small, 
not tuHped, and free from any tan behind. 

The neck tapering, musci:dar, and well cut under the 
lower jaw. 

The shoulders deep, and well set back. 

The loins strong, ribs round, and the back ribs deep, the 
body well knit together. 

The legs straight, and the feet round and small. 

The tail must be fine, carried straight and not curled. 

The color, which is a principal point, must be raven 
black, with rich mahogany tao, well penciled on each toe; 
the tan should be clear and free from any admixture of 
black. Above the eyes there should be a distinct spot of 



THE ROUGH TERRIER. 



17 



tan. The body should be black, with a rich tan on the 
fore legs half way up them. The breast should have two 
distinct marks of tan. The jaw should also be well tanned 
up the gullet, and the cheek divided, having a small tan 
spot a little less than that over the eyes. The upper jaw 
should also be nicely tanned and run in conformity with the 
tanning on the lower jaw. The hind legs should be per- 
fectly free from tan on the outside, but on the inside there 
shoiild be some tan. The vent should have a small tan 
spot, and there should also be tan half way up the tail. 
The weight varies froi^i ten to twenty-five pounds. 




THE ROUGH TERRIER. 

Rough Terriers are no doubt all descended from the 
broken-haired Scotch dog, with which all must be familiar, 
but whether the modern silken-hair has been developed 
by crossisg with the Maltese, or by selection is a moot ques- 
tion. In general shape this dog resembles the smooth va- 
riety, but he is slightly longer in frame, and not so elegant 
in his proportions. The chief peculiarity is in coat and 
color. The roughness of the coat about the muzzle and 
face makes the head look larger, and takes off a good deal 
from the lively look so remarkable in the smooth dog. 
The modern Rough Terrier is of a blue color, with rich 
fawn (approaching to a tan) legs, the under part being 



18 THE SKYE TERRIER. 

all of the latter color. The tail is carried higher than that 
of the smooth dog. In the old-fashioned strain the col- 
ors are either grizzled, black, with pale tan spots, or gen- 
erally of a grizzled black-brown, sometimes quite gray and 
constituting the pepper-and-salt color. Sometimes the 
broken-haired dog is white, more or less marked with blue 
or some other color, but the less the better. 

POINTS AND PKOPEETIES OF A PEKFECT 
ROUGH TERRIER. 

The points of the Rough Terrier are the same as regards 
shape and make as the Smooth Enghsh Terrier; but the 
coat differs in being long, and of three different shades, 
that on the back being a blue slate; the face, head and 
legs a silky silvery fawn; the whole undermined by short 
tanned hair. The older the dog the more silvery he gets. 

The Scotch Terrier is also the same in shape. . His col- 
or may be pepper or mustard, or pepper and mustard; in 
each case m ore or less mixed with salt. 

The Toy dog of these strains is the same in all but 
weight, which should not exceed seven pounds, the smaller 
the better. 



THE SKYE TERRIER. 

POINTS AND PROPERTIES. 

This dog is, with the exception of the Turnspit, and his 
foreign representative, the Barbet, the longest of aU dogs 
in proportion to his height. From the nose to the tip of 
his tail, when extended, the Skye should measure at least 
three times its height, and sometimes it is met with three 
and a half times as long. At the same time its coat is so 
developed that its shape is nearly very like the door-mat to 
which it is so often compared — ears, legs, and tail aU verg- 
ing in one mass, with the exception of the tip of the latter, 
and of the feet. In a well coated specimen the eyes are 
only to be guessed at, and even the nose is often obscured, 
but generally they are each more or less visible on a close 
inspectioii. 

The head looks large from the profusion of hair with 



THE SKYE TERRIER. 19 

wliicli it is invested but it is not really so. Its shape is not 
easily got at, but it is somewhat wide, while the neck is un- 
usually long. The eyes, which are, from the same cause 
scarcely visible, are found, on separating the over-hanging 
hair, to be keen, expressive, small, and generally of a dark 
color, either black or, brown, as are the nose and palate. 
The ears are of good size, that is, about three inches long, 
clothed thickly with hair, which should mingle with that of 
the face and neck, and should fall, but not quite so close to 
the cheek, owing to the quantity of hair by which they 
are surrounded. Many breeders, however, prefer the prick 
ear, asserting that the strains possessing it are harder and 
better at vermin. The mouth must be level, with a large 
and black nose. 

The body is too much coated to show its shape, and the 
form of the shoulder and backribs can only be ascertained 
by handling. 

The-fore legs are generally more or less bandy; there 
are no dewclaws, and the feet are not very strong, having 
a tendency to flatness, and thinness of the soles. Tail 
long, and carried horizontally, but with a sweep, so that 
the tip is a little below the level of the back. Weight from 
ten to eighteen pounds, the bitches being nearly as heavy 
as the dogs — ^perhaps about two pounds less. 

The colors most fancied are steel with black tips, fawn 
with dark brown tips to the ears and tail, dark slaty-blue 
(slightly grizzled, but without any absolute admixture of 
white) black, and pure fawn — ^the order named being in ac- 
cordance with the value of each. The hair should be long, 
straight, and shining like that of the tail of the horse, any 
appearance of silkiness, wooliness, or curl being to be a- 
voided, excepting on the top of the head, where it may 
have a slight tendency to the first named condition. 



THE ITALIAN GREYHOUm. 

All authorities "unite in the opinion that this beautiful 
little dog must be an English smooth greyhound in every- 
thing but size, which is tantamount to stating that it must 
be one of the most graceful, or, perhaps, the most grace- 
ful and racing-looking creature on the face of the earth. 

It is neither more nor less than a small greyhound, for 
which Italy was celebrated, and which perhaps was origi- 
nally bred as a distinct breed. It must have become 
dwarfed from climate or constant "in-breeding," but it has 
never been in any way deformed by the means adojDted to 
decrease its size. 

POINTS AND PEOPERTIES OF A PERFECT 
ITALIAN GREYHOUND. 

The head should be wide behind, and larger in circum- 
ference if measured over the ears than over the eyebrows. 
The jaw should be veiy lean, with a good muscular devel- 
opment of the cheek. The eye of the Italian variety, how- 
ever, should not be so large or fuU as that of the English 
dog. 

The ear of the Italian should be exceedingly small and 
falling flat, except when the animal is animated. It may 
then be slightly raised, but never pricked. 

Blue and fawn are the favorite colors; the latter should 
be of an auburn hue. Various colors, however, are fash- 
ionable for a time and then fancy changes. At one time 
cream colored dogs commanded the highest price, then 
white with black nose. At one time bla<i muzzles were in 
vogue; and we believe they are preferred at the present 
time, and parti-colored dogs are not thought much of. 
When these dogs are self-colored, they should be free from 
any white, and this may be predicated of every description 
of dog or hound. Fawn dogs should have black toe-nails. 
All of the breed should have very glossy coats and a com- 
pact form. The tail should be very fine, and though coat- 
ed, and not bare or showing the caudal vertebrce, it should 
be void of all roughness. 

The weight must not exceed eight or nine pounds, and 



THE PUG DOG. 21 

the dog is valuable in proportion as lie weighs less than 
this. Specimens have been bred, which, at maturity, did 
not reach five pounds, but they were very delicate and 
shy. Some of the best shaped and most perfect grey- 
hounds of this discription have reached from fourteen to 
eighteen pounds, and at this weight they are certainly 
more robust than the more valuable dwai-fs, occasionally 
becoming fat and losing the beautiful lines of their kind. 
The bitches are much less than the dogs. 

It has been crossed in England with the small bull- 
terrier with advantage, and the produce displayed no del- 
icacy and lost none of its courage. 

Although the pure ItaHan greyhound is generally delicate 
and nervous, it now and then displays wonderful affection 
and fidelity. 



THE PUG DOa. 

The pug dog between the years 1836-46 was the rarest 
breed in Great Britain. The old and absurd system of 
cropping off the whole of the ears prevailed, and this cru- 
elty was excused because it occasioned that wrinkling and 
puckering of the forehead considered essential in a pug 
dog. 

POINTS AND PROPERTIES OF A PERFECT 
PUG DOG. 

The true EngHsh pug should be of a fawn or putty color, 
devoid of any smut approaching blackness. Clearness and 
purity of color are essential, so as to render the various 
markings as clear and sharp in outline as possible. The 
dog should stand on short legs, as straight and well made 
as a foxhound, but with long "hare feet", the toes well spHt 
up. His head should be round and the forehead high and 
monkey like; nose short, teeth level, jaw square. The eye 
should be full and black; the ears are small, silky, black, 
and close to the head. A black mole should be clearly 
marked on each cheek, with three hairs in each. The 
mask should be black and positively marked with well 
developed wrinkles in the skin; the neck should be strong 



22 KING CHARLES SPANIEL. 

and thick, devoid of aU loose or i^uckered skin. The chest 
should be broad, the back and loins wide and strong, and 
a black line or "trace" should run down the back to the 
end of the tail. The tail should be tightly curled over the 
side or hip, having a second cui'l, and the point coming 
out. The ribs should be round. 

A narrow or pointed nose is a very great disfigurement; 
so is a woolly or dead coat. The coat should be sleek and 
shining, short, and soft to the touch. Eound feet are also 
bad, so are white toes, or indeed white anywhere. If the 
black of the mask melts gradually into a grey, and is soft- 
ened until it mingles with the fawn, the dog loses much of 
its value. 



lim CHARLES SPMIEL 

The King Charles is now always either black and tan 
without white, or mixture of these colors in handsome 
patches, the tan spot over the eye in the latter case being al- 
ways an important feature. In the time of Charles II, from 
whom the dog gets his name, the color as shown by Van- 
dyck was liver and white, which color was in vogue until 
the present century, when the black and tan superseded it, 
and is now considered the specialty of the breed. Nor is 
the modern shortness of face of old standing when carried 
to the extreme which now prevails. Vandyck's dogs are 
quite sharp-nosed, and those of the present century were at 
least only half way on the road to the state in which they 
are now exhibited, with faces like those of the bull dog. 
At present the dog should weigh about seven pounds (not 
more than ten pounds). Perfection in shape is seldom at- 
tained below seven pounds, but if it can be obtained in 
smaller compass so much the better. 

He should have a round skull, and large, found, promi- 
nent eyes, with a deep indentation or " stop" between 
them. The lower jaw should project beyond the upper, 
and turn up. Large ears " touching the ground " are high- 
ly esteemed, but this is a figurative expression. They 
must droop close to the head and be thickly coated. The 
back of all the legs must be densely feathered, and the 



TOY TERRIERS. 23 

feet must be almost lost in the feather, which ought to 
project beyond the nails. 

The tail should be carried low, the dog should stand on 
short legs and appear compact. Any protrusion of the 
tongue is most objectionable. 

His coat should be silky, straight, very abundant, and of 
the richest color. The black should be intense, the tan 
vivid and rich. The dog should be altogether free from 
white. He should have tan of this rich red quality on his 
cheeks and the inner margin of the ear. His lips should 
be tan, and he should have a spot of the same color over 
each eye; the larger this spot is the better. His cheeks 
should be well tanned, also his chest or "mane," all his 
legs, his belly, the feather of his haunches, his vent, and 
the under plumage of his tail. 



TOY TERRIERS. 

Each variety of thfe terrier, when bred less than five, or 
even seven pounds, is considered to belong to the toys. If 
a black and tan, the colors should be very distinct and 
rich, without a speck of white, and on the tan each toe 
should be penciled with a fine streak of black reaching to 
the knee. This is a point gTeatly insisted on by fanciers. 
Blue and fawn smooth terriers are also prized highly. 
Smooth white terriers should be without a speck of color. 
These dogs have generally their ears clipped, with tails left 
perfect. The rough blue fawn, silky coat terrier makes 
a very pretty toy dog, so does the dwarf bull-terrier, both 
resembling the larger breeds in all points. 



jAcio, THE mmm. 

One of tlie most remarkable black and tan terriers, oi 
bis time was the late dog "Jacko," called the Wonder, own- 
ed by the genial Jemmy Shaw. In Jemmy's darkest days, 
when misfortune followed misfortune and everything look- 
ed black, he started from London with no other compan- 
ion than his dog, and visited various parts of England, en- 
tering Jacko for all kinds of ratting matches, and a number 
of contests with other dogs, and carrying off silver collars, 
goblets, watches, rings and money prizes, more than enough 
to keep Jemmy, and enabhng him always to have a little 
ready money. Joe Carless, the rough and ready but 
whole souled publican of Paterson, N. J., will bear me out 
in all that can be said about Jemmy and Jacko. "When 
Jacko was hardly able to stand and all but blind, I have 
seen him pitted against young dogs, and never but with -idc- 
tory on his side. Jemmy's voice seemed a charm, whether 
to hurry or check him, Jacko obeyed his master, totter- 
ing and sightless. In his old age and decrepitude I have 
often seen Jacko on a cold morning sit, first warming one 
paw and rubbing it over his face, then the other, till his 
nose was warm, and then turn round his tail to the fire; and 
being thoroughly warmed through, laid down and stayed 
there. He was one of the fixtures of Jemmy Shaw's par- 
lor at the "Wrekin Tavern," in BroadCourt, London, where 
he ended his days about two years ago. Models in plas- 
ter and models in wood were numerous of Jacko. His 
portraits were printed in books and papers, and the dog 
was publicly exhibited at the Royal Crystal Palace on the 
7th and 9th of July, 1866, and met the admiration of above 
50,000 visitors. His master. Jemmy Shaw, was presented 
with a valuable large silver goblet by the directors of the 
Crystal Palace, also a handsome medal as a lasting me- 
mento. 

Jacko was a thirteen pound dog, and won nearly four 
hundred matches; he was only defeated five times, viz.: 
by Old Nell, when he was greatly out of condition, also by 
Young Dutch, Portsmouth Toby, Hopping Clara and 
another dog, name unknown. In 1861, in the Potteries, 
Staffordshire, Jacko killed twenty-five rats in one min. 
twenty-eight sec. which is the best time on record. In 



DOG SHOWS. 25 

July 8, 1862, killed fifty rats in three min. sixteen sec. On 
May 1, 1862, he killed one hundred rats in five min. twenty- 
eight sec. The shortest time on record for that number, 
completing the unprecedented feat of destroying one thou- 
sand rats in one hundi-ed min. with time to spare. On 
June 10, 1862, he killed two hundred rats in fourteen min. 
thirty-seven sec, the time never having been beaten. The 
above are only a few matches to show his extraordinary 
ability at rat-kiUing. 



DOG SIIO¥S. 



We have our horse, cattle, bird and even baby shows, but 
very httle attention has been paid to dog shows. Why 
not is a puzzler, for it is in the power and means of almost 
every one to keep a dog of some kind, and as a natural con- 
sequence one would expect more general interest to be felt 
in this direction than in the others mentioned. In Eng- 
land, more especially in London, dog shows have always 
^been and stiU are an institution, and if not participated in 
so much by the silver spoon born order of society, they 
are nevertheless a good thing, serving to encourage and 
foster the breeding of pure and perfect si^ecimens of the 
canine race. Bull dogs, terriers and toy dogs are the prin- 
cipal variet^'es shown, and there one sees them to perfection. 
BeWs Life of the present day has a column devoted to 
dog shows, wherein jDrizes are offered to the shortest 
nosed bull dog, the smallest black and tan, Scotch, Skye 
and Maltese terriers,, which varieties seem to be most pop- 
ular among the sporting element from their beauty, per- 
fection and pluck. Men supposed to be brutal in their 
nature are found to take far more care of their little pets 
than they do of themselves. There is material enough 
for the same kind of dog shows here, and perhaps at no 
late day our dog fanciers may form some kind of an asso- 
ciation with this object in view. Messrs. Butler, Dovey, 
Young, Silvey, Fletcher, Jennings, Walton and others who 
make a speciality of dealing in dogs, to say nothing of 
thousands of private individuals who own choice speci- 
mens, have a variety and stock sufficient to compete with 
all comers, and they would find it to their mutual interest 
to establish a National Dog Club. 




TMINim FOR THE PIT. 



BY ED. JAMES. 



In matching a dog, you should be guided by the condition of your 
dog whether you match him to fight in 4, 6 or 8 weeks; if he is fat, 
you must allow from 6 to 8 weeks. To get him in condition, com- 
mence by cleaning him well out inside. You can do that best by 
giving him magnesia in hi3 food, say a tablespoon each day, for 4 
days. Get some sheeps' heads or calves' feet and boil till you can 
shake the bones out and leave the meat. Take bian from wheat 
and scald it, then mix the bran and the soup together and feed to 
the dog, cold. Feed on that for 2 or 3 weeks, according to the time 
you have got to put him in condition; he should not be fed on hard 
food more than 2 weeks. The last 2 weeks you must get good rump 
be^f steak and broil it very rare, then take bread and slice it and 
toast it dry, mix the dry toast with the steak, cut very fine. Do not 
give Inm over a tea-cup full of water each day, and if you find he is 
feverish and wants water, get one quart of Irish moss and boil it in 
2 quarts of water, strain it, and give about a tablespoonful of the 
liquid when you feed, night and morniug. When you commence to 
work your dog, give him about half an hour's work at a time and in- 
crease his work as you go along. You can judge how much to feed 
and how much work he ought to have to do. Do not work him too 
much, one hour's hard work is enough for any dog. If he works 
good for one hour, he will fight 3 hours. If he does not lose flesh 
fast enough for you, do not feed him so much. A dog shoiold not 
be taken down too fast, one pound a d^y to start with, and less as 
you come near fighting. You must weigh your dog before and after 
work, so as to know exactly how he gets along. 

When you have given him his work, rub him well from the point 
of his nose to the end of his tail, also his legs and his breast— rub- 
bing with the hands surpasses the brush, towel, or anything of the 
kind; in case the dog needs washing, do so with alcohol, and be sure 
to rub him dry with the hands. 

It may be as well to caution all interested in reference to the 
poison frequently rubbed on dogs to prevent the opposite dog from 
biting, which is generally in the fomi of Coeeosive Stiblijiate, 
hence the importance of laithful handlers and trainers. The same 
course of training laid down above will answer also for dogs matched 
to kill rats for money or prizes. 




DOa FIGHTING HULES: 



EuLE 1. To be a fair Bcratch in turn fight, 

2. Botla dogs to be tasted before and after fighting, if required. 
, 3. Both dogs to be shown fair to the scratch. 

4. Both seconds to deliver the dogs fair from the corner, and 
hot leave until the dogs commence fighting. 

5. A time-keeper to be chosen in the pit; half-minute time to 
be allowed between every fair go away; twenty-five seconds al- 
lowed for sponging; and at the expiration of that time the time- 
keeper shall call, ''Make ready," and as soon as the half minute is 
expired the dogs to be delivered, and the dog refusing or stopping 
on the -way, to be the loser. 

6. Should either second pick his dog up by mistake, he shall 
put it down immediately or the money to be forfeited. 

7. Should anything pernicious be found on either dog, before or 
ofter fighting in the pit, the backers of the dog so found to forfeit, 
and the person or persons holding the battle money to give it up 
immediately when called upon to do so. 

I 8. Two umpires and a referee to be chosen in the pit before fight- 
ing; in case the umpires should not agree, the decision of the 
referee to bo final. 

9. Either dog exceeding the stipulated weight, on the day of 
weighing, to forfeit the money deposited. 

10. No dog shall scratch to a dead dog; when one dog is dead the 
living one wins the battle. 

11. Both dogs shall be washed or sponged from the same tub, so 
as to prevcii fc cither party introducing deleterious drugs or poi^^ns 
in the water. 



28 DOG FIGHTING RULES. 

ENGLISH DOG FIGHTING RULES. 

1. Both the dogs to go to scale, neither dog to exceed a certain 
weight, on penalty of losing the battle money. Color to be name^ 
in the articles if required. Time keepers, two umpires and refereo 
to be chosen agreeable to both parties in the pit. The pit to be from 
ten to twelve feet square, with white scratch marks or scratch corners, 
say about two feet size in opposite corners, termed scratch marks. 

2. The dogs to be tasted or tried if any pernicious rubbing or 
fakeing the dogs. If so, by the direction of the referee the dogs 
to be thoroughly washed clean, or by his decision to forfeit all claim 
to the stakes; the dogs to be tasted and tried before and aft?r set- 
ting-to if required, to be decided by the referee; two buckets of 
clean water to be mixed and toss for choice in the pit. 

3. To toss for choice of corners and each dog to be loosed in a 
fair style by their seconds. The dog that makes the first fault — that is, 
that goes away first— to be the first to scratch, or to go in, providmg 
he is picked up at the time of his first fault or go away ; then each dog 
to scratch in turn alternately, no matter which makes the fault or 
go away. After the first go away each dog to scratch in turn, the dog 
that scratches last to be declared the winner. If either dog be so 
distressed as not to be able to mouth the other, but to go to the opposite 
scratch, the dog whose turn it is to go in must go all the way across 
without stopping. To constitute a lair go in, his fore feet must touch 
the opposite scratch. 

4. Neither seconds to touch either dog, or behave unfair to either 
dog or second in the pit. If so, by the appeal and decision of the 
referee to be disqualified, either second throwing his dog across the 
pit to be deemed foul. Stamping on or near the dog's head to be 
deemed foul. If picked up in a mistake, to be put down again and fairly 
fought out. Unless if picked up intentionally foul, to be decided by 
the referee. 

5. To constitute a fair go-away or picked-up, both dogs to be free 
of each other, both their heads and fore feet from the other; the 
second of either dog to watch minutely, to pick his dog up when he 
moves away as above. If while picking up either dog should catch 
hold of the other, the second to put his dog down again and fairly 
wait for a fair go-away and pick up. This rule to be strictly adhered 
to, and if any dispute arises to be appealed to the umpires and 
referee, and the referee's decision in all such appeals, right or wrong, 
to be binding on all occasions. None but experienced judges should 
undertake such unthankful ofiices, and to be agreed to by both parties. 
When the seconds pick up their dogs, to go to their respective cor- 
ners and wash and sponge their dogs' mouths. One minute to be al- 
lowed for time, the time keeper to call out aloud at forty-five sec- 
onds, "Hands out of the pit." At fifty seconds, "Get ready. " Both 
dogs to be shown a fair head at the scratch. At sixty seconds' call, 
"Time,"let go, the time keeper to observe, "It is your turn to go in," 
naming dog and master. 

6. Each party to be allowed a friend agreeable to both parties, to 
be a silent observer in each corner, but to be kept a respectful dis- 
tance from either dog, water, &c. If any unfair chicanery on either 
side is suspected, to be decided by the referee. 



. RAT KILLING RULES. 

(EITHEB FOR MATCHES OE PEIZES.) 

1. Each, dog to kill as many rats as lie (the said dog) weighs 
pounds, 

2. Any dog exceeding one quarter of a pound over the pounds he 
weighs is to kill one rat extra^, utiless otherwise agreed on. 

3. The name of the owner, the color, name, &c., of the dog, weight 
and number of rats they have to kill must be written on separate 
slips of card and put into a hat or can. 

4. A referee and a timekeeper to be appointed, with a stop-watch, 
and another person to look oyer him, the time to be kept by one 
watch only; and in case of any dispute, the decision of the referee 
to be final. 

5. The smallest number of rats are to be put into the pit, a card 
is then to be drawn Irom the hat or can, and the number of rats 
named on it to be announced, and the rat catcher is to make up the 
number (if any is required), when the name of the owner and of his 
dog is to be announced. 

6. The second is to let the dog go when the timekeeper is ready 
to take the time by anyone that may be agreed on. 

7. The second is not to touch the dog or rat until he considers 
the rats are all dead. He is then to pick up his dog and call time 
dead, the timekeeper to stop his watch and announce the time. 
N. B.— If the second infringe upon this rule by touching the dog or 
rats for any purpose, the referee shall adjudge the dog to have lost 
the match. 

8. If the owners of any dogs engaged in the match (but no other 
person) consider that the rats are not all killed, or that the second 
has picked up his dog foul — that is, he has taken up the dog before 
he had bitten all the rats — he is to appeal to the referee; and if he 
(the referee) considers that ho has done so intentionally, the said 



80 BADGER BAITING RULES. 

dog to be excluded. N. B. — If the referee considers that it is not a 
foul pick up, but that the rats are not all dead, he is to point them 
out; and if there is any doubt, the second is to tread on their tails, 
and if they crawl their whole length they are to be considered liTe 
rats, and the dog is to be put down again to kill them. 

9. The dog is to be held in the middle of the j)it, in a marked 
circle. When the timekeeper is ready he is to be let go, and the 
time he takes to kill them is to be added for the first time. 

RULES FOR MATCHES. 

1. The owner of each dog to provide, at the time named in the 
agreement, the number of rats that his dog is to kill. 

2. Half of each person's rats is to be put in the i^it, and then toss 
for choice of rats; and if the winner of the toss chooses the rats 
that are in the pit, his dog is to kill the first. 

3. If one rat catcher finds rats for both parties, the raf s (if possi- 
ble) are all to be put in one cage; and the number of rats the first 
dog is to kill is to be put into the i^it, when the parties are to toss 
for choice of rats, and the same proceedings to be observed as in 
Eule 2d, unless otherwise agreed on. 

RULES FOR HANDICAP MATCHES. 

1. Each dog must kill an eq^ual number of rats to the number of 
pounds he weighs. 

2. A five pound dog to kill five rats ; a ten pound dog to kill two 
rats extra; a fifteen pound dog to kill three rats extra; a twenty 
pound dog to kill four rats extra; a twenty-five pound dog to 
kill five rats extra, or one extra rat for every additional five pounds 
weight. 

3. Any dog weighing one, two, three or four pounds between any 
of the above weights, one second of time shall be allowed to the 
time he kills his quantity of rats in; for instance, a seventeen 
pound dog kills three rats in fourteen seconds, he is to have two 
seconds added to his time, because he weighs seventeen pounds, 
which is two pounds above the specified weight, viz. : — a fifteen 
pound dog to kill three rats, and so on in the same proportion. 



BADGER BAITING RULES. 

1. The badger or coon box should be at least seven feet long, 
about sixteen inches high and one foot wide, with no turn in the 
end of it. 

2. A dog must draw the coon or badger's head to the front inside 
of ten seconds, to count a draw. 

3. No dog is allowed to run twice or to be Eponged. 



THE EAT. 



ITS NATUEE AND FECUNDITY. 

Rats are accredited by a pliilosopher to be one of tliQ 
most fertile causes of distress. None of the naturalists 
give a clear explanation of the rat; they give a most lucid 
description of him as he is; but as to what he does, is 
most vague and imperfect. Bats feed and labor in the 
dark; they shun the approach of man. If we go into a 
barn or granary Vv^here hundreds are living, we shall not 
see one, unless we disturb them m their hiding places; and 
if we dive into a cellar that may be perfectly infested with 
them, we shall not see any, unless it may be a stray one 
popping across for a more safe retreat. Consequently, 
men seldom think of them, because they seldom see them; 
but if rats could by any means be made to live on the sur- 
face of the earth, instead of holes and corners, and feed 
and run about the streets and fields in the open day, like 
dogs, the whole nation would be horror-stricken, and ulti- 
mately there would not be a man, woman or child able to 
brandish a stick but v/ould have a dog, stick, or gun for 
their destruction wherever they met with them. 

Rats are said to live in open warfare, and to destroy 
each other for the sake of cannibalism. This is an errone- 
ous notion; for so far from that, they live by hundreds and 
thousands in a community. They are, in the strictest sense 
and substance of the term, true Communists or Socialists, 
living in open intercourse and in common with each other, 
and wallowing in laziness and luxury stolen from the stores 
of industry. Wlien they run short of food, they will mi- 
grate hundreds in a drove to some neighboring barn, 
granary, or what not — no matter where; for where corn is, 
there will they resort., and no one thing is proof against 
them save solid stone or metal. 

Messrs. Jemmy Shaw and Sabin of London, Eng. are said 
to have destroyed between eight thousand and nine thou- 
sand pairs of rats each, annually, averaging seventeen 
thousand pairs between them. Rats will have six, seven, 
and eight nests of young in the year, and that for three and 
four years together. They will have from twelve to twen- 



32 THE RAT. 

ty-three at a litter, and tlie young will breed at tliree 
months old. There are more females than males, at an 
average of about ten to six. 

Four litters in a year, beginning and ending with a lit- 
ter, so making thirteen litters in three years; to have eight 
young ones at a birth, haU male and half female; the 
young ones to have a litter at six months old. 

At this calculation take one pair of rats; at the expii*a- 
tion of three years yoai will have six hundred and forty 
six thousand eight hundred and eight ! 

Mr. Shaw's dog "Tiny," under six pounds weight, has 
destroyed two thousand five hundred and twenty-five 
pairs of rats, which, had they been permitted to Hve, would, 
at the same calculation and in the same time, have pro- 
duced one thousand six hundred and thirty-three millions 
one hundred and ninty thousand two hundred living rats ! 

And the rats destroyed by Messrs. Shaw and Sabin in 
one year, amounting to seventeen thousand pau's, would, 
had they been permitted to live, have produced, at tho 
above calculation and in the same ' time, no less a num- 
ber than ten thousand nine hundred and ninty-five mil- 
lions seven hundred and thirty-six thousand living rats ! 

HOW MUCH EATS CONSUIME. 

First, six rats will consume day by day as much food as 
a man; second, that the thing has been tested, and that 
the estimate given w^as, that eight rats would consume 
more than an ordinary man. To place the thing beyond 
'the smallest shadow of doubt — set down ten rats to eat 
as much as a man, not a child; nor say anything about 
what rats waste, and the result is that the first pair of rats, 
with their three years' progeny, would consume in the 
night more food than sixty-four thousand six hundred and 
eighty men the year round, and leaving eight rats to 
spare! And the rats destroyed by the httle wonder 
"Tiny," had they been permitted to live would, at the 
same calculation, with their three years' progeny, have 
consumed as much food as one hundred and sixty-three 
millions three hundred and nineteen thousand and twenty 
men; above two-thirds the population of Europe ! ! 

And now for the vermin destroyed by Messrs. Shaw and 
Sabin. Taken at the same calculation, with their threo 
years' progeny, they would, it is argued, consume more 



THE RAT. 33 

food than tlie whole population of the earth. The popu- 
lation of the earth, including men, women and children, 
is estimated to be nine hundred and seventy million souls; 
and the seventeen thousand rats in three years would -pro- 
duce ten thousand nine hundred and ninety-five millions 
seven hundred and thirty-six thousand; consequently, at 
ten rats per man, there would be sufficient rats to eat as 
much food as all the people on the earth, and leaving one 
thousand two hundred and ninety-five milhons seven hun- 
dred and thirty-six thousand rats to starve. So that if the 
human family were increased to one thousand and ninety- 
nine millions five hundred and seventy-three thousand six 
hundred, instead of nine hundred and seventy milhons, 
there would be rats enough to eat the food of them all ! 

In some parts of England men make their Hving by 
catching rats and selling them, and as much as $1,000 a 
year is said to have been paid by one London dog-fancier. 
Every rat is brought up from the country fresh and clean, 
or they would not serve their purpose. 

If a farmer has only ten rats upon his farm, he is keep- 
ing equal to one man in idleness; if he has a hundred rats, 
he is keeping equal to ten men in idleness; but if he has 
a thousand rats upon his farm, to say nothing about mice, 
(and few large farms have much less), he is keeping equal 
to a hundred men in idleness the year round. 

Rats are only good to manure the land with their dead 
carcases, since they afford neither food nor raiment for man, 

ABOUT FEREETS. 

The rats' enemies are the ferret, cat, dog and the man. 
Ferrets are bred for rat and rabbit hunting. They should 
be kept very hungry when wanted for hunting, because 
they will hunt but very little, if at all, when they are well 
fed. Consequently, they hunt, not for the purpose ol 
destroying their victims, but for the sake of getting a 
meal ; and when they are put into the holes, if they should 
slip their muzzles and catch a rat or rabbit, or come acro£ 3 
a nest of young ones, they will destroy them ; and after 
they have gorged as much as they please, they will fre- 
quently lie down by the remainder, and go fast to sleep. 

WHAT CATS AND TRAPS WILL DO. 
Some cats are determined creatures; they will watch for 



34 THE RAT. 

clays together^ for a rat; sometimes they catch him, and 
sometimes not. On tlie other hand, rats have keen noses, 
and can smell the cat; so they will shift their quarters to 
some other place of greater safety. 

Some persons use traps, but to little purpose. The se- 
cret is this: rats are by nature very clean animals; conse- 
quently, when traps are new and sweet, rats may be de- 
coyed into them; but when they have had a rat or two con- 
fined and fretting in them, they become so foul and offen- 
sive that another will not go near them; so that the traps, 
to be made useful again, should be put in soak for twenty- 
four hours, and then hung up in the air for a week to 
become sweet. 

MAN'S BEST FRIEND, AND RAT'S GREATEST 

ENEMY, THE DOG. 

The dog will protect his master both by night and Say 
from thieves of every denomination; nothing can shake 
his fidelity, and all he requires in return is a crust and a 
friendly j)at; with these he feels himself amply rewarded, 
and will exert every faculty nature has endowed him with 
to serve and amuse his master. The most merciful and 
speedy way of destroying rats is to let the dogs kill them. 
The little wonder "Tiny" has twice killed two hundred 
rats within the hour. Other large dogs will kill from eight 
to twenty rats in a minute. 

Let all persons who feel an interest in the destruction 
of vermin use their utmost endeavors to patronize and 
propagate the breed of small terriers. A dog, to be of 
sound service, ought to be from six to sixteen pounds 
weight; over that they become too large and unweildy for 
the purpose, and too expensive keeping; besides little dogs 
will kill mice as well as rats, and that is a great recommen- 
dation. The rat-killing terrier is as hard as steel, courage- 
pus as a lion, and as handsome as a race horse. 

HOW TO LEARN DOGS TO KILL RATS. 

A bull terrier or bull dog should be at least six months 
old before a rat is given to him to kill, and a small bred 
black and tan, Scotch or skye-terrier from nine months 
to a year. If thoroughbred, at this early age a terrier pup 
of any kind will take to killing as natural as an old ratter. 



ART OF LEARNING DOGS TRICKS. 35 

In all cases, the teeth of the rat should be pulled out with 
nippers, or his jav^s tied up, at least the first half dozen cv 
dozen should be served in this way, to prevent their bit- 
ing the pup, as if bitten at the first attempt it will take 
the dog a long time to forget it. 

If possible, give youi* dogs barn rats, or those fed on 
grain, as hotel rats or other high fed "varmints" often times 
sicken the dog after biting them from the greasy nature 
of their food. 



LEAMING DOGS TRICKS. 

One has only to go to a menagerie of j)erfoming wild 
beasts and see the most ferocious and savage denizens of 
the forest, under almost cat-like subjection, to be assured 
how comparatively easy it must be to teach your dog lots 
of little amusing tricks. Newfoundlands, Black and Tan 
Terriers, King Charles Spaniels, Pomeranian or Spitz 
Dogs, Scotch, Skye and Maltese Terriers, and the French 
Poodle are, as a general thing, the most intelligent and 
easily learnt. The Newfoundlands have been made stage- 
heroes, and earn from $50 to $150 per week according to 
their ability as actors. The salary of a good performing 
Poodle averages $150 per week. The half-bred, ill-fed, 
blind man's dog, if not good at tricks, will lead his mas- 
ter through all kinds of dangers and bring him home 
when no longer able to beg and the streets become de- 
serted—his pay is small but such is his fate. Dogs, like 
men, are born to good or bad luck. 

It is not our province here to give anecdotes of dogs. 
Neither space nor poHcy admits of it, as there are already 
many books in the market treating on these matters at 
large. In undertaking to learn dogs tricks, it should be 
commenced from the time they are three months old, and 
it should be borne in mind that your own patience and 
perseverance has as much to do with it as anything. Use 
firmness and kindness before kicks and cuffs; in fact, do 
pretty much the same as you would wish to be done by 



36 ART OF LEARNING DOGS TRICKS. 

yourseK. We are indebted to "Haney's Art of Training 
Animals" for tlie modus operandi of the following triclis: — 

To LexVp. — A line or pole may be extended from any 
convenient supports, just so high that the dog cannot step 
over. Take your station on one side of this barrier with a 
supply of bread^ or cracker. By the offer of a small piece 
induce him to approach as near as possible to the line or 
pole keeping the tid-bit close to his nose, but raised a tri- 
fle above it. Now, with a sudden movement, extend your 
hand beyond the barrier, crying at the same time "hip," 
or any other quick, inspiring exclamation. Eager to get 
the tempting morsel he will leap over, and the same pro- 
ceeding may be repeated once or twice, when he should 
be rewarded wdth the bait he has been striving for. After 
a few repetitions he wdll probably leap over at a motion oJt 
the hand and the word of command. He should always 
be rewarded for obeyiug, and it is well to have a Hght 
switch with w^hich to give him a gentle cut should he at- 
tempt to run under, which he should never be permitted 
to do. The hight of the barrier may be increased gradu- 
ally from day to day, taking care never to overtask his 
powers. 

When the dog leaps readily over a bar, a hooj^ may bo 
held in the hand and the same system pursued. The hoop 
may be gradually lessened in size until the dog finally 
leaps through one hardly bigger around than his ow^n 
body, but to do this the trainer must display some skill 
in conforming the motions of the hoop to those of the 
dog as he passes through. 

To Walk Erect. — Hold a bone or other like temptation 
a little above the dog's nose, but not so high as to lead 
him to jump to get it. As he reaches for it raise it so as to 
induce him to raise up on his hind feet, saymg as you do 
so, "up, up !" When he reaches the proper stand-point, 
let him remain there a moment or two and then let him 
have the bone. Soon he wdll stand up on your merely 
holding your hand in the position described and saying, 
"up, ui^." Then he may he taught to walk in this posi- 
tion by slowely movi]':g the bone or your hand slightly in 
advance. These exercises should not be tediously prolong- 
ed, especially at first, for the position is an unnatural and 
fatiguing one to the animal. After he thoroughly under- 
stands what is required of him 3^ou may check any attempt 



ART OF LEARNING DOGS TRICKS. 37 

he may make to regain his natural position before you are 
wilHng, by a gentle tap under the chin or under the fore 
paws. 

To Dance. — X dog is generally considered sufficiently 
accomplished in this "graceful and agreeable art" when he 
has learned to hop arouDd on his hind legs, and to keep 
turning completely around at short intervals. Take a long 
switch, after the dog has learned to stand erect, and to 
this switch attach a piece of meat. With this you can 
trace out in the air, in tempting proximity to his nose, ihe 
figures you may wish him to take, and you may depend 
upon his instinct leading him to follow the motions of the 
switch. The dog should be rewarded with the meat after 
he has danced enough to fairly earn it, and after a few les- 
sons the switch may be used without any bait attached. 
He will at first follow its motions in the hope that there 
is something attached, and if he be rewarded for doing so, 
he will soon comprehend that following the switch means 
meat by-and-by. 

To Sit and Lie Dotvtt. — Taking your position with the 
dog in froDt of \ou, raise one hand over his head and 
make a motion with it as though about to strike him on 
the top of his head with your palm; as you do so repeat 
the word "down" distinctly and commandingly, with each 
motion of the hand. This should not be done as a men- 
ace, but to indicate your wishes. While you do this, press 
firmly with your other hand upon his back, just over the 
hips — this pressure will assist in making him take the de- 
sired position. When he has done so he should be patted 
and made to understand that he has done right. Repeat 
until he obeys the command readily, and then teach him 
to lie down, which consists in forcing him into a recum- 
bent posture, as you command him to "lie down!" 

To Beg. — After the dog has learned to stand erect he 
may easily be taught to beg. All that is requisite is to 
press him down in the required position; if he attempts 
to leave it a gentle tap on the head with the switch will be 
sufficient to control him. He may, if preferred, be taught 
to beg without learning to stand erect; in this case he may 
be made to sit down and then, pressing his haunches down 
to prevent his rising to his feet, tap him under the chin till 
he takes the right position. Repetition is of course neces- 



38 ART OF LEARNING DOGS TRICKS. 

sary until he leams what is desired, and each time you 
place him in position it is well to say "beg" two or three 
times so he may associate the word with the act. 

To Speak For It. — Take a piece of some article of food 
which he is fond of, and allowing him to P3e it, command 
him to "speak for it." • Of course he will not understand 
what you mean, and will probably only gaze wistfully at 
th e morsel. By and by he will grow impatient and give 
vent to a sharp bark. The moment he has done this give 
him the article, for although he has not understood you he 
has done what you desired, and by rewarding him he learns 
that this is the case. Practice him a little at some of his 
old tricks with another reward at hand to encoui-age him. 
Should he try the experiment of barking while thus en- 
gaged no notice should be taken of it, for it is not desired 
that he should bark except he be told to, and his doing so 
in other cases should never be rewarded. When you wish 
it, repeat the command of "sp®ak for it," and when he 
obeys reward him. If at first he does not show an inclina- 
tion to bark he may be stimulated to do so by your giving 
a "bow wow" yourself in as doggish a manner as you are 
able. 

To Fetch and Caery. — Place the article in the dog's 
mouth, and when he lets go of it give him a slight box on 
the ear and replace the article in his mouth. Whatever is 
given him to carry should be of such a form as to be grasped 
easily by him without hurting his mouth or teeth. The 
weight should at first be very light, and never more than 
he can easily carry. Most dogs will take a real joleasure 
in carrying articles in this manner, and they seem to feel 
the responsibility attached to their duty, for they will carry 
their own or their masters' dinner without attemx)ting to 
appropriate any portion of it until the proper time when 
their share shall be given them. In teaching dogs to carry 
food, however, it is necessary to take a little si}ecial pains 
to overcome their instinctive inclination to eat it. A good 
plan is to place the article in a covered basket which they 
cannot open, and when the dog has learned to carry an 
ordinary parcel give him this. If he attempts to get at the 
food, which he readily detects by his sense of smell, box 
his ears. By-andrby reward him with the food, and then 
try him with a basket from which he can abstract the con- 



ART OF LEARNING DOGS TRICKS. 39 

tents; if he tries to do so pimish him slightly, never per- 
mitting him to steal the food. 

To make a dog carry articles from one person to anoth- 
er it is only necessary for two persons to take their posi- 
tions at some distance from one another. One gives the 
dog some article saying, "go, su'," at the same time. As 
the first says this let the other person call or whistle to the 
dog. Now let this one give the dog some tiling and let the 
other call him, and so on back and forth until he will go 
from one to the other at the command, "go, sir." The 
distance between the parties may be increased from time 
to time, and the trick may be varied by one of them hiding 
himself, this will teach the dog to hunt for the person to 
whom he is to deliver the article, which will prove useful 
when you by-and-by desire to send him on an actual errand 
at a distance. 

It is not very difficult to teach a dog to go on errands. 
Suppose you w^sh him to go to the store for you of a 
morning; take him with you regularly for a few mornings, 
letting him carry the basket. In a few days he will under- 
stand when you start where it is you projDose to go, and 
will, perhaps, run on ahead and arrive there some minutes 
before you. It would be well on all occasions before start- 
ing to give the command, "Go to the store," which will 
accustom him to it. 

To Bring His Tail In His Mouth. — The dog having 
been taught to fetch and carry, an amusing aj^i^lication of 
this knowledge can be made by having him bring his own 
tail in his mouth. The feat is rather difficult, for while his 
tail is in his mouth, the dog can only advance in something 
like crab fashion, or sideways, with an almost irresistible 
tendency to go around in a circle without getting ahead 
any. To attain success in teaching this trick the dog must 
be gifted with a good deal of tail, and the trainer with a 
good deal of jpatience. Dogs will in play grasp their tails, 
and most persons have noticed while frohcking with a dog 
that if the dog's tail be taken hold of with one's hand, the 
dog will attempt to seize the hand with his mouth, and if 
his tail be now dexterously placed in his way, he will seize 
that. When the dog takes hold of his tail praise him, and 
after he has held it a little while bid him "let go," and re- 
ward him. Should he relinquish his hold before you or- 
der him to, speak sharply to him and commence again. 



40 ART OF LEARNING DOGS TRICKS. 

"When he has learned to retain hold of his tail until order- 
ed to relinquish it, the more difficult part of his lesson may 
be taught — the bringing it to the trainer. The trainer at 
first takes his place a few feet from the dog in the direc- 
tion in which the dog can most easily advance, and calls the 
the dog; should he let go his tail to come, he is to be 
scolded, and the tail placed in his mouth. "When he comes 
without letting go, he should be rewarded. Gradually the 
distance he is required to come may be increased, but it 
it would be cruel to make the distance more than half a 
dozen yards. When the tail is placed in his mouth it is 
well to say "Bring me your tail," to accustom him to 
the order. By-and-by when you give this order merely 
hold his tail for him to grasp, and at last let him seize it 
without any assistance from you. 

To Stand on his Head and to "Walk on his Hind Legs. — 
The term "Standing on his Head" is applied to a "wrong 
end up" position, the animal is actually supported by his 
fore paws, his head not necessarily touching the ground. 
To teach the trick, provide yourself with a switch twenty 
inches in length and moderately stout. This switch, held 
in your right hand, you place under the dog's belly, and 
while you raise up his hind quarters with it, you place your 
left hand on his head to prevent him from moving away, 
and to make him retain his reversed position. As the dog 
rises into position the switch should be gradually carried 
along until it supports his hind feet. This is the process 
for the first few lessons, until the dog understands w^hat is 
required; after that it is better merely to tap his ankles in 
front with your switch, giving at the same time whatever 
order you have accustomed him to in teaching the trick. 
He should eventually take the position without any hint or 
help from the switch. 

"When the preceding trick is thoroughly mastered, the 
walking part may be easily added. Taking your position 
a little in front of your pupil when he is in his upside- 
down x^osition, you encourage him to come to you. At the 
same time you must keep your switch in handy proximity 
to his toes, w^hich you tap hghtly on any signs of his 
relinquishing the position. 

To " Sing." — When a dog howls in time, we think it fair 
to call his performance ''singing." The dog should be 



ART OF LEARNING DOGS TRICKS. 41 

, kept without food until his appetite is quite sharp. When 
food is shown him he naturally whines for it. Now a dog 
may be made to whine, howl, or bark, if you make any of 
these noises yourself; almost any dog will imitate you, 
and not only that, but the pitch and style of noise he 
makes will be somewhat regulated by that made by you. 
The hungry dog is in prime mental condition for this ex- 
ercise, and if rewarded when he hits pretty near upon the 
right degree of noise, he will learn to follow your tones 
quite accurately. If exercised in a regular scale, or in a 
simple tune, he will by-and-by go through it without re- 
quiring your prompting, with sufficient accuracy to be 
recognized — if the hearers know beforehand what melody 
to expect. 

It is not pretended, of course, that dogs trained as above 
described, do anything but repeat a series of noises me- 
chanically in a prescribed rotation. 

To Feign Death. — A dog may be placed on his back or 
in almost any other posture, and by speaking sharply to 
him and threating him with your forefinger, you can pre- 
vent his changing his position. In this manner the trick 
of feigning death is taught. If a special word of com- 
mand be used when placing him, he will learn to take the 
position on hearing that command. 

The Lump of Sugar Trick. — This consists in placing a 
lump of sugar on the dog's nose, and having him toss it 
up and catch it in his mouth. It is not essential that 
sugar should be used; any other dainty will do as well, 
indeed a piece of meat will answer better in teaching the 
trick. In teaching, hold your switch under the dog's chin, 
and tap him whenever he tries to lower his head to let the 
meat drop. If he does not presently jerk his head up, 
and so throw the morsel into the air, you should strike 
him a pretty smart rap under the chin to make him do so. 
"When it leaves his nose there will be no instruction re- 
quired to make him seize it promptly before it has a 
chance to reach the ground; should it, however, touch the 
ground, it is well to take it from him and make him toss 
it again. 



DISEASES AND THEIR CURE, 



HYDKOPHOBIA, OE CANINE MADNESS. 

Symptoms. — Restlessness, countenance anxious, eyes 
bloodshot, snapping at tlie empty air, his natural food is 
neglected, at the same time every sort of filthy trash is 
greedily devoured; eating his own excrement is an early 
symptom. He also has an insatiable thirst. 

Treatment. — The dog should be at once destroyed. 

INFLAMMATION OE THE EYE. 

Treatment. — ^Bathe the dog's eyes with cold tea two or 
three times a day. 

In blindness, wash with a lotion of sulphate of zinc 
four grains, sugar of lead four grains and distilled water 
half a i^int twice a day. 

CATARACT, OR SCUM. 

Treatment. — Take pulverized white sugar, common bar- 
ley sugar is the best, open the hds and fill the eye three or 
four times a day, or blow the sugar through a quill into 
the eye. 

INELAjVIMATION OE THE BOWELS. 

Symptoms. — Dullness of appearance and eyes; loss of ap- 
petite; lying on the belly, with outstretched legs, pulse 
much quickened; scratching up of the bed into a heap 
and j)ressing the belly on it; desire to sw^allow stones, coal, 
etc. 

Treatment. — Bleed most freely, till the dog faints away. 
Clap a blister on the pit of the stomach. Give aloes, fif- 
teen grains, and opium, haK a grain. Repeat dose three 
times a day. Bleed after twelve houi's, if pulse rises again, 
and continue dosing and bleeding till either the dog or 
inflammation gives in. 

DUMB MADNESS. 

Symptoms. — Stupidity; restlessness; the tongue becomes 
of a dark color, and much swollen; the animal is also con- 
stantly rubbing its jaws with its j)aws, as if seeking to 



DISEASES AND THEIR CURE. 43 

remove a bone from its throat; and is in general unable to 
keep its mouth shut, or the tongue within it. 
This disease is incurable. 

CANKER IN THE EAR. 

Symptoms. — Shaking the head, holding it on one eido, 
and violent scratching of the ear. 

Treatment- — The ears should be well washed with warm 
water and soap, and then syringed out with a solution of 
sugar of lead, in the proportion of about a teaspoonful of 
the lead to a pint of distilled or rain water. The washing 
should be repeated twice or thrice daily, and the bowels of 
the dog kept open by a daily laxative; if these remedies 
fail, a seton must be run through the back of the neck, and 
strong doses of aloes given every second day. 

JAUNDICE. 

Symptoms. — The white of the eye becomes suffuse I with 
a yellow hue, and the same hue spreads over all the skin; 
nose and mouth are dry and parched ; the dog loses appe- 
tite; seeks concealment; becomes weak and emaciated; 
vomits greenish matter, sometimes tinged with blood; loses 
consciousness. 

Treatment. — Give Epsom salts, combined with mucilage 
of gum Arabic, or very well boiled gruel. If you think the 
disease has only just made its api^earance, an emetic will 
be of great service, and common salt will answer the pur- 
pose, if nothing else is at hand. Small doses of calomel 
and colocyuth, in the form of a pill, given at night, and 
followed by an aperient in the morning, will generally 
prove sucsessful. If much fever be present, bleeding 
should be resorted to. 

When appetite returns, the food should be light, and 
given in small quantities. 

WORMS. 

Symptoms. — Fetid breath, voracity or total loss of appe- 
tite, violent purging, or obstinate constipation, jvith great 
emaciation, sometimes fits. One of the ordinary symptoms 
is the dog dragging his fundament along the ground. 

Treatment. — Give, first day, a small pill formed of Venice 
turpentine and flour, from the size of a very minute pea 
to that of a small marble, according to the size and age of 



44 DISEASES AND THEIR CURE. 

the pup. The former will suffice for Blenheim or King 
Charles pups, Italian greyhounds, &c. ; the latter for blood- 
hounds, Newfoundlands, mastiffs, &c. The second day, 
give a small dose of castor oil; a teaspoonful to the small- 
er, a tablespoon ful to the larger breeds; in neither case, 
however, quite fuU. Third day, give nothing. Fourth day, 
tui-pentine, as before. Fifth day, the oil. Sixth day, iioth- 
ing; and so on. 

Keep your puppies' beds dry, clean and sweet. Do not 
feed them too often, or on food of too nutritious a quality. 
Puppies should not be fed oftener than three times a day. 
The morning and evening meals may be given at 9 A. M. 
and at 7 P. M., and should consist of vegetables — potatoes, 
oatmeal, &c. — well boiled, and given with milk. At two, 
give meat with the mess, but not too abundantly. Between 
the meals give a drink of buttermilk, or milk and water. 

Aloes are useful for dislodging worms from the rectum, 
as they pass down the intestines almost unchanged; but 
powdered glass is the safest and most efficacious; give it 
in pills formed with butter and ginger, and covered with 
soft paper. 

MANGE 

Is of three kinds — the common mange, red mange, and 
scabby mange. 

Treatment. — Common mange readily yields to cleanli- 
ness, with small alterative doses of sulphur and nitre given 
daily. If neglected it runs into scabby mange; the skin 
breaks out into blotches; the dog becomes emaciated; the 
belly hard and swollen; and death will sooner or later 
ensue. Use aperient medicine for a day or t\\o; then for 
a week give the alterative medicines above mentioned; after 
which have the animal well washed with soft soap and 
Warm water; then rub his entire body with the following: — 

Train Oil One pint, 

Turpentine One ounce, 

Naptlia One ounce, 

Oil of Tar One ounce. 

Soot One ounce, 

and Sulphur in powder sufficient to make the stuff of a proper 

consistence. 

This is to remain on the .dog for three days, during 
which time he must be kept dry and warm and fed spar- 
ingly; let it be washed olf on the foui'th day, with sofi 
soap and warm water, in which some common washing-. 



DISEASES AND THEIR CURE. 45 

soda has been dissolved; give clean straw, plenty of exer- 
cise and cooling diet, and the dog will speedily get well. 

In red mange a httle mercurial ointment may be added 
to the above preparation. 

Puj^pies are very liable to display a mangy-looking coat 
at the age of from two to four months. The hair falls oil 
m spots, and the skin becomes itchy, dry and scaly. This 
is not genuine mange, but if neglected is apt to run into 
it. At this early stage it is easily cured by washing with 
soft soap and water, and change of bedding, giving also 
a httle sulphur in the food daily, and in very minute 
quantities. 

Change of feeding is serviceable in the treatment of 
mange; but it is a mistake to suppose that this must always 
be to a reduced regimen. 

AVashing the dog with carbolic soap and hot water, three 
times a week, is another simple and very good remedy for 
mange. 

DISTEMPER. 

Symptoms. — Loss of appetite, dullness, fever, weakness 
of the eyes, a discharge from the nose, a short husky 
cough, discharge from both eyes and nose, a pecuhar and 
fetid smell, emaciation, sometimes fits. 

Treatment. — Bleedmg is most useful, and that pretty 
copious; give an emetic, and follow it up by a gentle pur- 
gative; if — as is generally the case when the above treat- 
ment does not effect a ciure — inflammation of the lungs 
supervenes, you must take more blood, give more aperient 
medicine, with occasional emetics. If the animal become 
weak, and is apparently sinking, give mild tonics, as gen- 
tian, quinine; and if he will not eat, put some strong beef- 
jelly down his throat. A seton in the back of the neck is 
often useful, but should not be used indiscriminately. 

DIARRHCEA. 

Treatment. — ^Wait a day or two, to ascertain if the dis- 
charge will cure itself; if it continue, give castor-oil, with 
a few drops of laudanum. 

COSTIVENESS. 

Treatment — Change the diet; give gruel and slops; and 
let the dog have full liberty; boiled liver will be found use- 
ful. If these measures fail, give, small doses of castor-oil. 



46 DISEASES AND THEIR CURE. 

Tie a ligature round Lis neck, and the vein will rise. 
Bleed tlie dog standing on his feet; when he droops ■ his 
head, or appears weak, cut the cord; the bleeding will stop 
of itself without the aid of a pin. 

Warts may be removed by the aid of caustic, and some- 
times a ligature. 

ENCYSTED TUMOKS. 

These are very common in the dog, and consist of small, 
soft bladders lying close under the skin, of a circular form 
and devoid of pain or inflammation. They vary in size 
from that of a x^ea to the volume of a small orange. The 
only remedy is the knife, which may be used with perfect 
safety by any one accustomed to it. The skin must be 
saved and dissected back, and the tumor, when exposed, 
may readily be lifted out of its bed without much dissec- 
tion; after which the parts may be suffered to heal oi 
themselves. 

PAKTURITION. 

In order to ascertam whether or not the bitch is in pup, 
a careful external examination will generally be necessary; 
when on pressing the fingers deeply between the rectum 
and the bladder, several small round or oval bodies may 
be felt, in number according to the future litte^r Between 
the fourth and seventh weeks the whelps cannot be so eas- 
ily felt; but, though they are said, to be lost, a careful ex- 
amination by a practiced hand will always detect nearly 
all of them lying close against them. After the seventh 
week they appear very plainly, and the belly rapidly swells 
till it attains the size which it presents at whelping time; 
about three or four days before which the teats begin to 
swell, and on the day before are generally full of milk — a 
pretty sure indication of the near approach of labor. 

Sometimes, however, her palvis is too small to allow 
of the passage of the whelp, and then either she must 
die, or man must afford his aid by mechanical means. 
If a part of the whelp is born, and the remamder does 
not come away for some time — owing apparently to the 
exhausted condition of the bitch — it is quite safe to give a 
little brandy and gi*uel by the mouth, and then steadily to 
draw away the whelx>, by laying hold of the part present- 
ing with a i3iece of tape round it, or a strip of cahco. 



DISEASES AND THEIR CURE. 47 

As soon as all the wlielps are bom, the bitch may be al- 
lowed to rest a short time, unless she is very much exhaust- 
ed, when the brandy and gruel may be given. After an 
hour, in the usual way, a little lukewarm gruel may be al- 
lowed; and in the course of four hours another quantity of 
the same. No meat of any kind should be given for three 
days, durmg which time the state of the bowels should be 
regulated, if necessary, by castor oil; and milk thickened 
with oatmeal or wheat-flour, or broth with the same thick- 
ening, or with arrowroot, if diarrhoea is present, should 
be the only food. Sometimes, after the first week, the 
whole litter is too great a draw upon the system, and part 
must be removed iiom. the bitch, and brought up by hand, 
if it is wished to preserve them, feeding them from a com- 
mon baby's bottle, with the India-rubber nipple now so 
commonly in use; but a very thick and stout one should 
be selected or the puppy will compress it too much with 
its tongue. When the bitch is much reduced by her suck- 
ling, she sometimes is subject to fits, for which the only 
remedy is the removal of her whelps, and the exhibition oJl 
stroxig beef tea, with bark, and ammonia in addition; to- 
gether with port wine and aiTowroot, if the bowels are re- 
laxed. After the first week, and, indeed, gradually during 
the fourth, fifth, and sixth days, meat must be added to 
the other food, especially if the bitch has had much 
animal food before whelping. 

If the bitch is inclined to devour her young, she should 
be allowed to remain very quiet, and very little animal 
food should be given her. A dose of oil should always be 
given a short time before her whelping time; and if she 
should, nevertheless, devour them, another dose should 
follow, so as to carry off the effects of so heating a meal. 

If a foster-mother is determined upon, all that is neces- 
sary is to muzzle her until the strange whelps have sucked 
her, and lain for some time with her own. 

If the bitch has been "put by," as it is called, and is not 
in whelp at the end of nine weeks from her "heat," she 
will be fat and indolent, with her teats full of milk. At 
this time it ds better to take a little blood from her, and to 
give her a smart purge once or twice, together with vege- 
table food; after which she will generally recover her health 
and spirits, and become much as usual at the expiration of 
another month or five weeks. 



GAME COCK: 

BEING A 

PEACTICAL TEEATISE 

ON 

BREEDING, REARING, TRAINING, FEED- 
ING, TRIMMING, MAINS, HEELING, 
SPURS, ETC, ETC., ETC. 
TOGETHER WITH AN 

EXPOSURE OF COCKERS' TRICKS, 

THE 

ORIGm AND CURE OF DISEASES, 

AND THE REVISED 

COOKING RULES 

GOVERNING ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD. 

BY 

ED. JAMES. 




PUBLISHED BY 
ED.^ JAMES, 88 AND 90 CENTRE STREET, N. Y 

NEW YORK CLIPPER BUILDING. 

CLOTH, GILT COYER, ILLUSTRATED, $1.25. 



